Forbes May 7, 2024
Lifestyle
The Watches and Wonders 2024 event showcased a variety of sports watches, each with unique feature and design. I have narrowed down my top five favorites, each epitomizing the perfect blend of functionality and style.
Tudor has been consistently attentive to the desires of its audience, and this watch exemplifies that. With its thinner case, in-house chronometer-certified movement, and the much-anticipated 'Coke' bezel, the Black Bay 58 GMT checks all the right boxes. The 39mm case, made from stainless steel, displays a perfect blend of polished and satin finishes. The dial, subtly domed and radial-brushed in black, features bold gilt hour markers and a minute track. The dial also houses four hands, including a prominent GMT hand, and a date window at the 3 o'clock position.
Black Bay 58 GMT is powered by MT5450-U automatic movement. The movement is METAS certified, promising an accuracy variance range of -0/+5 seconds a day and resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT is offered with two strap options: a rivet-style steel bracelet or a black rubber strap. Both the bracelet and strap options come with the T-Fit clasp, allowing easy adjustments across five positions spanning 8mm, ensuring a perfect fit.
Retail price is $4,400 USD on the rubber strap and $4,600 USD on the steel bracelet.
The Hermès Cut collection made its debut with four 36mm unisex models. These models are available in stainless steel or a combination of steel and gold, and some variants even feature a bezel adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds. The steel case seems to be a round with a thick bezel at first glance. However, a closer look reveals a more complex design. The case middle leans more towards a tonneau shape with very rounded corners that obscure any hint of a straight line.
The dials of the Hermès Cut watches are opaline silver-toned with applied luminous Arabic numerals. The brand has put a lot of thought into the font used for these numerals, which is similar to that used in the H08 collection, but distinct enough to set this collection apart. The central seconds hand features a bright orange counterweight near the tip, a nod to Hermès' signature color. Driving the Hermès Cut watches is the H1912 automatic movement made by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.
The Aquis Date was first introduced by Oris in 2011, designed to be a robust, water-resistant tool watch. The new generation of Aquis Date models comes in three distinct sizes — 43.5mm, 41.5mm, and 36.5mm. All these models feature the Oris 733 automatic movement, except for the 43.5mm version, which can also be fitted with the brand's proprietary Calibre 400. In 2024, the 43.5mm version of the Aquis Date became the first model to be equipped with Oris' new in-house caliber 400 movement, boasting a five-day power reserve, anti-magnetic properties, and a ten-year warranty.
The first noticeable upgrade is the case design. The lugs have been made shorter and more ergonomic, while the crown guards now taper towards the case. Also, the thickness of the watches has been slightly reduced for all models. Another significant revision is the introduction of a new stainless steel bracelet with redesigned links. The central links are broader and brushed, and the bracelet profile is more tapering. The newly introduced sustainable packaging is constructed from 50% recycled cardboard and paper.
Retail price starts from $2,500 USD.
Instead of the anticipated Coke (black and red) version, Rolex has chosen to expand the steel range with a new monochromatic tone. Rolex GMT Master II 126710GRNR, has already received a nickname of 'Bruce Wayne' in the horology circles, as an homage to the iconic character from the Batman series, known for his subdued yet sophisticated taste in fashion. It stands out with its two-tone, grey and black Cerachrom bezel. The case, identical to previous versions, measures 40mm in diameter and 11.9mm in height. The right side hosts a Triplock crown and together with the solid steel screwed back, it guarantees a 100m water-resistance.
The dial follows the traditional glossy black lacquered design of the collection, with applied 18k white gold markers and hands, using the Chromalight display. What changes is the comeback of the green GMT hand and the green GMT Master II mention, a nod to the long-gone black bezel reference LB, which features this color as a touch of originality. Inside the case, Rolex houses the in-house, Superlative Chronometer and automatic 3285 movement. This GMT Master II is available either on the classic 3-link Oyster bracelet or the more elegant, slightly more retro Jubilee bracelet.
Retail price is $10,700 USD on Oyster bracelet and $10,900 USD on Jubilee bracelet.
The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Black Titanium is a unique take on the brand's BR-X5 sports watches. The case of the BR-X5 Black Titanium measures 41mm by 12.8mm on the wrist. The watch is constructed from grade 2 titanium, giving it a dark, matte look thanks to a microblasted finish. Machined sides and an integrated style connecting the watch to a matching titanium or rubber strap further enhance its distinct look. The bracelet of the BR-X5 Black Titanium continues the usage of the grade 2 titanium, providing a seamless look from case to bracelet. The choice between a matching titanium or rubber strap offers versatility and comfort.
The dial of the BR-X5 Black Titanium follows the familiar execution of the BR-X5 series. It distinguishes itself via a semi-monochromatic black with white Super-Luminova details. Applied ovular hour markers serve as most of the indices, with a matching handset indicating the running time. An aviation-inspired date window at the 3 o'clock position provides daily utility, while a large power reserve scale sits at its opposite at the 9 o'clock. The heart of the BR-X5 Black Titanium is the BR-CAL.323 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve. It's a COSC-certified chronometer, ensuring its precision and reliability.
Retail price is $9,900 on a titanium bracelet and $8,900 on a rubber strap.
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