Interview: How To Explore New Hampshire’s Underrated Dining Scene

New Hampshire serves as a paradise for outdoor adventure thanks to top-tier hiking destinations like Mount Washington and Franconia Ridge, but the Granite State has a lot more to offer than just outdoor adventure. The state’s verdant swathes of farmland and small strip of coastline have fostered a thriving dining scene from Coös County down to Portsmouth—and few people know this as well as Chef Evan Hennessey. As both chef and owner of Stages—a prestigious Dover venue that offers a rotating New England-inspired tasting menu—as well as its cocktail-focused counterpart The Living Room, Hennessey has spent his life immersed in the rich dining scene of the Granite State both in the kitchen and as a patron.

For Forbes, Chef Hennessey provides insight into the unsung diversity of New Hampshire’s dining scene while simultaneously highlighting some of the top spots to explore across the state.

What makes New Hampshire’s dining scene stand out when compared to other states in New England?

New Hampshire is such a different state than its surrounding neighbors. We have an incredible array of small farms and producers here with a willingness to share and collaborate. A lot of the food and restaurants speak to the landscape and the people, which we really pride ourselves on.

What are some of the best “hidden gem” restaurants to visit across the state?

In the White Mountains, I really enjoy Thompson House Eatery in Jackson and The Beal House in Littleton. Both restaurants have similar values to my restaurants, which is utilizing as much locally-grown and/or produced ingredients as possible and directly supporting the local economy.

In the Seacoast area, my concepts, The Living Room and Stages at One Washington, offer two completely different experiences under the same roof. We’re a small but mighty operation that offers a six-seat tasting menu experience on one side and a cocktail lounge on the other. We’re located in a restored mill building in downtown Dover that houses shops, cafés and apartments, so it’s really off the beaten path.

Which city or region in New Hampshire has the most impressive dining scene?

Everyone wants to point to the Seacoast area for dining because it’s where the highest concentration of restaurants is, but I would argue that great food is in the eye of the beholder and can be found all over the state. You just have to know where to look!

Diners identify with different aspects of restaurants and hospitality. One of the best things about New Hampshire is that with a great diversity of restaurants around the state, people have many choices and can find their “special” or “go-to” place, which is what restaurants are really all about.

What are some specific dishes that first-time New Hampshire visitors should try?

New Hampshire doesn’t quite have a specific dish, however, it does have a wide-range of various cuisines and dining experiences that most people don’t know about that I encourage everyone who visits—especially for the first time—to try.

For example, in the White Mountains there’s authentic central Thai and Southeast Asian fare at Chang Thai Cafe, and in Southern New Hampshire there are generational Haitian recipes being served at Ansanm in Milford. In the Seacoast, we offer a range of elevated dishes at The Living Room, one of which is an aerated brie with freshly-baked shiitake mushroom madeleines and warm honey, which continues to wow diners year after year.

What are some cuisines or culinary concepts that you can find in New Hampshire that most people might not expect?

Haitian food! Chef Chris Viaud has blown the door open and put Haitian food on the map in the Northeast with his return-to-roots concept at Ansamn in Milford, New Hampshire. From traditional poule nan sòs, which is stewed chicken in a creole sauce, to a fried chicken sandwich with epis aioli and pikliz on a housemade adobo brioche, Ansanm is a dining destination for a true taste of Haiti.

Why should New Hampshire and its food scene(s) be on consumers' radars?

New Hampshire is a collection of small towns. We don't have a Boston or Portland to boast about. In fact, it’s quite the opposite. We are highly proud of our small communities and the people, businesses and restaurants that make them vibrant. It's what defines this state. We want people to come to New Hampshire to see us and what we are proud of.

All in one weekend, people can visit the ocean, mountains, beautiful small towns and quaint streets, shop, relax by a lake at a bed and breakfast and dine from mom and pop breakfast joints to highly-awarded restaurants for dinner. We literally have it all!